Monday, July 29, 2013

My Chemise and Split Drawers! (And a Dress form)

If you have a Civil War dress, you also need all the correct undergarments to go with it. When I first made my dress, I had no clue about the correct 1860's silhouette, so recently I've been filling where I missed. A chemise and a pair of split drawers were the final pieces to complete my outfit.

I happened across a pattern for an 1850's - 1870's chemise in the Chapman Historical Museum that Cassidy from A Most Beguiling Accomplishment drew up. I thought it looked fairly simple, giving that it was all one piece (except for the gussets), so I decided to give it a go. I bought a plain white sheet. I thought it was cotton, but then I saw the tag said muslin. It feels thicker than most cottons to me.

Here's her sketch:


It took me a while to figure out how big to enlarge the thing. I ended up around 27" wide and while it isn't uncomfortable to wear, I think next time I'll make it a few inches wider. I was going to model it for you myself, along with my drawers and corset, but lately it has been quite chilly and I didn't really feel like walking around in my undergarments. :) My new dress form will model it for you instead. (Read more about her below)


There is some excess fabric below the arm, because of the way the pattern is, but it really doesn't bother me. 

The gussets
I used a self-drafted pattern for my split drawers, found at Auntie Maude's Compendium. They were fairly easy to make up and are very comfy! You can somewhat see them on my dress form, but they don't look very nice because she doesn't have legs to fill them out. :)


On to my dress form! I had been wanting one for some time now, but I waited until I made my corset so I could fit my historical dresses onto the correct silhouette. I started out with an old t-shirt and, with Mom's help, started slathering. You pretty much have to have someone help you, otherwise you can't get your shoulders correct. 

Taping...
Taping...


Taped!
Once I had a solid base, I cut it carefully off and taped it over a wooden frame made with Dad's help. Newspaper inside and more duct tape up the cut finished her up. Then I used my newest flower duct tape to cover her with. 


I think she turned out quite nice. I've named her Mabel. I haven't used her a whole lot yet, mainly just for modeling.

Hope your summer is going well!



13 comments:

  1. Wasn't it just awful when you were covered in duct tape??? I made one with the help of my sister, and I was miserable until I was able to cut it off...
    Also, how is it keeping the shape? My dress form that I made, now is in a completely different body shape, and is useless to me now. :( I layered the tape over it twice, as instructed, but maybe that wasn't enough.
    Do you have any tips for making an attempt more successful? Because I need a dress-form dreadfully, and I don't want to try again unless I know I can succeed this time!
    Sorry for all the questions! D:
    Also, the tape is in a very cute pattern! :D

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    1. It wasn't that bad actually. The tape on one arm was a bit tight, so I had Mom cut a slit in it, then it was better. I do love duct tape though. :) I think the trick is to not wrap it, just kind of lay it over you so it doesn't get too tight. The shape is holding up pretty good so far. But, like I said, I also haven't used her for anything other than modeling clothes.

      I used probably three or four layers of tape. I wasn't really counting, I just had Mom tape until it felt firm enough. There is a wooden frame inside, (made from 2x2 boards) holding the shoulders and hips firm. I also packed the newspaper quite firmly.

      I don't mind your questions a bit! I hope this helps. :) Thanks for commenting!
      -Veronica

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    2. Thank you! I never put a frame inside, either. I guess that is part of the problem I have with it. It could probably use a few more layers of tape, too. I used polyester batting for my dress form, which I guess really isn't a great idea, since that stuff is so squishy! :O
      Haha I am going to follow your tips sometime soon, and hope that it works as well! Thanks again!

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    3. Let me know how it turns out! :)

      -Veronica

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    4. I will! I actually just bought some more duct tape today! :) And I saw some $0.69 rulers today at Lowe's which I think will work well enough for a type of structure in it (And will be quite cheap, too!)
      Now I just need to convince my sister to tape me up again. She will be so annoyed with me, hehehe!

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    5. Yay! :) Be sure to do a post about it! I'd love to see it.

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  2. It's so great to see this chemise made up! It looks brilliant on your dress form. (And I love the floral tape.)

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    1. Thank you! It's more of a suggestion at your pattern than a copy, but I like it. :)

      -Veronica

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  3. I love the little trim on the neckline and armbands! Thanks for posting the patterns, I need to make a new 1860 chemise and some drawers soon and it's always nice to see patterns!

    Your dress form looks awesome! I love that it has arms. I've been using one for years brought from the store but it just doesn't match my body, maybe I should try to make one of these duct tape ones!

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    1. Thank you! :) The arms do make it a bit harder to get clothes on and off, but I wanted to be sure I could fit it without worrying that there's parts I've left out. I originally wanted to get one of the adjustable ones, but they're pretty pricey and I couldn't be 100% sure it would match my body. I'd be interested to see if you made your own!

      -Veronica

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  4. Hi, I thought you might be interested in my books of Victorian and Edwardian clothing patterns, including the 1902 skirt pattern you asked about in Historical Sewing. My books are described at www.lavoltapress.com and are available in many online bookstores. Thanks!

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  5. Thanks for the great pictures of your chemise! I refered to your version before I tried it myself, and I found it helpful. Nice dress form, too. I made one for a friend once, and hers collapsed, but I'm debating trying one for myself. If only I had a willing participant who would cover me in duct tape... anyway, it's great to see that yours turned out so well.

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    1. Thank you for your comment! :) I'm glad it was able to help you.

      Ah yes, a willing participant. That's one the hardest steps, I think. Good luck in finding one! :)

      -Veronica

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